Au Cheval was immediately on our radar of restaurants to try upon hearing of Food Network’s declaration of its double cheeseburger as the best burger in the nation. Centrally located in the West Loop, Au Cheval is notorious for long lines and famous for big flavor which contributed to the creation of their second location–Small Cheval (1732 N. Milwaukee).

It was no surprise that when we arrived at the original 800 W. Randolph location, we were greeted by a never-ending line extending the perimeter of the petite corner sensation. We decided to trade the three and a half hour wait for the shorter line Small Cheval promises.

Situated in the heart of Wicker Park, Small Cheval offers an ambient patio adorned with lights and colorful furniture. The understated building, which is home to the alleged champion of all burgers, closely resembles that of the original location in its simple advertising. However, its menu did not.

Small Cheval offers a double hamburger ($8.95), a double cheeseburger ($9.95) and golden fries ($2.95) along with an extensive assortment of adult beverages and the traditional vanilla and chocolate milkshake ($3.95). Although compensated with a 20 minute wait at this location, Small Cheval lacks the depth of options the original location provides such as the addition of a fried egg to any burger.

We first sampled the double cheeseburger (with bacon, $2, of course) that put Au Cheval on the map. Every layer of the burger from its paper thin pickles and fresh tomato, to its homemade Dijonnaise seems strategically calculated to form the mouthwatering combination of flavors that graced my mouth. Though the patties are of a smaller size, they are liberally coated with cheddar cheese in what Food Network and my taste buds deem “the perfect burger-to-cheese ratio”.

Once I finally tore myself away from the king of all burgers, I began to consume the pile of perfectly golden shoe-string french-fries. Alone they were crisp and delicious, but when dipped in Au/Small Cheval’s house-made garlic aioli they were transformed into an explosion of savory and salty that could crush any competitor. In addition to the aioli, Small Cheval’s condiment bar is comprised of all natural spicy brown mustard, mayonnaise and ketchup along with Heinz ketchup—an array of condiments that proudly exceeds the bounds of your average burger joint.

Needless to say, the all-American burger and fry experience would be incomplete without a shake ($3.95). After recovering from the initial shock of the sheer flavor of Small Cheval’s burger, I excitedly sipped my chocolate shake in hopes to be met by a thick blend of heaven and ice-cream. To my dismay, the shake’s consistency was unimpressive, and its chocolate flavor was lacking the handcrafted design of the burger.

Now I must clarify one thing: do not let the shake’s disappointment dissuade you from trying Small Cheval, because you might be missing out the best burger in the nation.

Bottom Line: Small Cheval has monopolized on small space to share big flavor with the hundreds of eager customers who do not want to spend three hours waiting for food. Its reinvention of the classic cheeseburger into a sophisticated blend of nuance and meat meshed between a lightly-toasted bun has earned Small Cheval the recognition it deserves.